14.3.11

Zuppa di Pesce alla Toscana - Tuscan Fish Stew

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Zuppa di Pesce alla Toscana - Tuscan Fish Stew
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This is neither a soup nor a chowder, but satisfies some of the criteria of each. Add a loaf of good Tuscan bread and you have lunch.

Ingredients

1/4 Lb. Pancetta, cut into fine dice
Butter
2 Medium Leeks -- white part only -- cleaned and sliced into thin rings
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons fresh Rosemary
4 Medium New Potatoes, cut into bite sized cubes
1 Quart (or more) Fish Stock or Water, see note below
Salt & Freshly ground White pepper
2 pounds firm, white-fleshed fish like Haddock or Cod cut into 4 or 5 large chunks
1/4 Cup Heavy Cream (Optional)
Italian Parsley, finely chopped

Preparation:

Heat a three or four quart sauce pot over medium heat. Add the Pancetta, stirring to separate the dice. Lower the heat to just above the 'Low' setting, and allow the Pancetta to cook long enoughto brown and crisp slightly, and to render its fat. Stir occasionally to ensure that the Pancetta doesn't stick or burn. Remove the Pancetta from the pot and reserve. Add enough butter to the pot to make about 2 Tbs. of fat. Add the leeks and sweat them over low heat for about 10 minutes or until they've become translucent and tender. Raise the heat to Medium and add the flour. Stir the flour and fat together to make a roux. When they're completely incorporated, cook for two or three minutes to cook off the floury taste. Begin adding stock or water, about 1/4 cup at a time, stirring constantly. At first, each addition will nearly form a paste. Don't add more until the previous liquid has been incorporated. Continue in this manner, also scraping up any bits of caramelized leeks on the bottom of the pot, until you've added about two cups,then add the remaining liquid all at once. Bring to a boil, continuing to stir gently. Add the Rosemary, potatoes and a few grinds of pepper. If it seems that the potatoes don't have enough liquid to cook properly, add up to a cup of stock or water to the pot. Cook until the potatoes are nearly cooked through -- just keep poking them and tasting. Add the fish, cover the pot and turn off the heat. Allow the fish to steep in the hot liquid for ten to fifteen minutes before serving. Finally, add up to 1/4 of heavy cream if desired, and stir very gently, trying not to break the fish chunks. To Serve Spoon 8 oz. portions into each of 4 bowls. Try not to break the fish any further than it has already broken as you serve. Garnish with the reserved Pancetta bits and the chopped parsley.

Serves four.


Notes:

You can arrive at a fine stock in several ways, although water is a perfectly acceptable base for this soup. But experiment with the following: Bottled clam broth. Julia Child's old standby. Heat some with a little white wine (About 3 parts broth to 1 part wine),and again, you and your diners will smile.

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